Eygpt, the Red Sea

Tuesday 10th September it was down to Gatwick for a 13:15 flight to Hurghada.  All turned out pretty smoothly save for a late start, still what did this matter in the bigger picture?  There’s two hours difference in time zone so we landed around 8:00, got loaded into a clapped out old Toyota and trundled our way to the hotel.  It was dark so couldn’t see much but it took longer than expected, partly due to the speed bumps, quite extreme.  We virtually stopped to allow each axle to gently navigate each bump.  All the traffic knew to slow down, hard luck if you didn’t, I can imagine the suspension being ripped off.  Did I mention the heat?

Wednesday morning it was down to breakfast at the kiting centre.  An interesting walk.  Few of the buildings here are complete, piles of debris everywhere, sometimes strewn across the road, and hungry looking dogs.  We weren’t expecting wind so were briefed on the equipment and where to get things.  Meals were served at the centre, soft drinks free

and beer available.  Did I say it was hot?  We sat around trying to keep cool.

The centre is run by Sasha an interesting Russian guy, always ready to help.  He is around socialising and organising, ‘Who wants to join a poker game with my Russian friends’ who indeed?

The beach forms a small bay with fishing boats to the south and anchored 400m off shore.  Nothing is in front of the shore but it’s 150m walk. The wind is supposed to be from the north cross/on shore, when it blows.

Thursday was supposed to be an early start to catch the wind, but it didn’t happen, so we sat around some more.  Around mid-day it appeared to pickup and at two there was a big rush to the water.  It didn’t happen, so we tried a few light wind things; looping the kite, I’d never done this intentionally, launching the kite off the water.  With virtually no wind it’s tug violently on the power lines immediately followed by two big strides towards the kite then teasing a steering line.  What’s happening here is to encourage the kite to sink a wing tip so it partially rotates to catch whatever wind there is.  I couldn’t do it but Jen, the instructor, got the kite off the water and into the air.  Well done her.

The water was knee to waist deep and supposed to be soft sand with a line of small rocks to the south.  Well there is a lot of sand but also a fair number of rocks and shells.  I’d gone out in bare feet and my feet were sore as hell by the end, particularly one heel that felt bruised.  That heel got progressively sorer as the evening went on and on investigating I could feel something embedded and sticking out.  One of my fellow kite surfers got hold of the protrusion and pulled out a spike.  That was a relief!

Out for a meal Thursday night. Adham took us to a restaurant opposite the fish market. A really splendid meal, enjoyed all the dishes and the best calamari I can remember. We walked off the meal round the marina and finished off with some beers at one of the waterfront cafes.

This is the mosque by the fish market

Friday, wind at last, I overslept and so did my roommate Will.  It was due to blow all day so no big deal.  I got on the water but had three changes of bar before I got one that controlled the kite, the steering lines were so stretched the bar needed to turn 90deg before the kite moved.  My feet were uncomfortable from stumbling around on rocks so I remembered to wear my boots.  Unfortunately they are a half size too small and my big toes in particularly felt bruised rammed against the fronts.

The aim of this trip is for me to get upwind.  First up I get a good start, downwind and then manage to turn up-wind.  Trouble is, I lose so much ground from preparing for my first dive I can never make it up when I do ride upwind.  I managed to fly the kite one handed and turn my shoulders and I make a controlled stop and start again in the opposite tack.

Saturday, the wind is strong and gusty.  I managed reasonable rides on both tacks, keep the kite still, but eventually head the board too far into the wind, so lose speed and grind to a halt.  Drifting down wind continues to be a problem so I can see I need to get in the straps and dive the kite with no faffing about.  After chatting to some of the guys I decide I need to start well upwind, in fact far enough so I can pass the last boat and potentially get much longer runs.  Down wind of the launch site the open water reduces in a triangle.

Beers back at the centre and Sasha gets his harmonica and guitar out and after a while, Will (my roommate), joins in on guitar.  They are both good musicians and it all had a great vibe.  We could have stayed all evening but dinner was served back at the rooms and we made our way there.  Sadly someone had turned the fridge up and all the beer was frozen.  Dinner was more Eygptian food, spicy cooked vegetables, chicken and salad.  For lunch we had falafel and spicy veg and humous. The only carbs in both meals was a little pitta bread.  I don’t think the chef had thought about the menu to well.  Everyone is out on the water burning lots of energy, but our meals today were almost carb free.  On other occasions lunch has been double pasta dishes, odd?

Sunday out on the water again.  Sasha asked Mohamed to take my board up wind, I walked up the beach and Mohamed took the kite and board.  This really worked for me although the 141 board straps kept coming off every time I rode.

Monday. Again Mohamed takes my gear up wind and I have a good day, morning & afternoon.  I’m now managing to go cross wind and I’m really trying to look up wind, not just at the kite. One run got a bit fast and out of control with me crashing in the water with my right foot jammed in the strap.  My big toe is very swollen I think it may be broken.

We go into Hurghada to eat in the evening but it was a quiet affair, everyone was shredded. My toe in particular was throbbing, I didn’t want to walk about, just sit down and rest.

Tuesday and the last opportunity to get on the water at Hurghada.  Still working on getting upwind but I have a speed control issue, I’m out of control! The tide, such as it is, is very low and I keep burying the back of the board so ask Mohamed to take the board back and walk back myself.

We get the old clapped out Toyota to the airport. I ask to go to the kiting centre to pick up my wet gear, but it falls on deaf ears, must get to the airport, we arrive 3hrs before the flight. The flight was not the most comfortable, I had picked up something the night before and needed the toilet but found myself between two divers, I did ask if they would like to sit together - 'no mate, why would I want to sit with him, we've just spent a week together'. So every time I needed the loo I had to wake up matey mid snore. I needed the loo a lot, he snored a lot!

On arrival at Gatwick I'm conscious I need to charge my phone so I can contact Artin who offered to give me a lift. Rummage, rummage, now phone where expected, must have left it on the plane - damn, that's awkward. I don't see Artin's flight on the board and realise he must have arrived at the north terminal. All too late, I wait 90min for a train and catch a taxis to drop me at the door. No key! After lots of banging I get in, maybe I should have stayed in Egypt.